Om alle inhoud te kunnen zien hebt u de actuele versie van Adobe Flash Player nodig.
Home Guitar Builds My Marshalls Marshall Footswitch mod Marshall front panel mod Marshall amp mods Mars amp mods 2 Marshall Divo inst Marshall Divo 2 Marshall Tubes Marshall Midi programming Airbrush Cat CT660 Truck Cat CT660 build 1 Cat CT660 build 2 Cat CT660 build 3 Cat CT660 build 4 Cat CT660 build 5 Cat CT660 build 6 Cat CT660 build 7 Cat CT660 build 8 Cat CT660 build 9 Cat CT660 build 10 Cat CT660 build 11 Cat CT660 build 12 Cat CT660 build 13 Cat CT660 build 14 Cat 385C LRE Cat385 underc. Cat underc2 Catunderc3 Cat underc4 Catunder5 Cat under6 Cat upper1 Cat upper2 Cat upper3 Cat upper4 Cat upper5 Cat upper6 Cat upper7 Cat upper8 Cat upper9 Cat upper10 Cat upper11 Cat upper12 Cat upper13 Cat upper14 Cat385 Hydr & Elec1 Cat385 Hydr & Elec2 Cat385 Hydr & Elec3
Left you see that the idler wheel is being made,one side is ready and you see me using a two-toothed cutter to enlarge the already drilled hole close to the size I need for fitting the bearing.Right you see the turning of the hole to the needed size.
10 March 2013:
Left you see the test-fitting of the bearing.Right you see the parts ready to be assembled.14 March 2013:
Left you see the idler wheels mounted in place.Right you see another detail that is also on the real machine and was not on the drawing,behind the opening where the idler wheel is fitted,there is a piece of metal welded on the frame,so I made this by glueing a little piece in place with 2 components glue.
Left you see the material for the sprockets,2 pieces of steel and one piece of aluminium,that is going to be used to first try out the milling of the teeth of the sprocket.Right you see the turning on the lathe of the first side of the sprocket.
Left you see the turning of the other side of the sprocket.Right you see the material ready for milling the teeth.
Left you see the centering of the jaws,the round table is already centered.Right you see the aluminium piece,in wich I first drilled little holes with a center drill,to see if the deviding of the teeth is ok.
Left you see that the teeth are milled on the aluminium piece,and it is ok.Right you see the milling of the steel sprockets.
Left you see the sprockets after the milling.Right you see the making of the slope on the teeth on the lathe.
Left you see the finishing of the top of the teeth with the dremel with a grinding disk,the bottem sprocket is ready,the top one not.Right you see the sprocket on the frame ,on the stainless steel axle that I already had made.18 March 2013:
18 March 2013:
Left you see the making of the slot,where the wedge of the axle gets it's grip on the sprocket.
Left you see the original drawing,but that is not origial like the real machine.Right you see a picture of the sprocket on the real machine,here you see at the side of the teeth some bolds,and I want those on my sprocket also,so I re-designed the sprocket,and underneath you can see the result.
Above you see that I did make the bolds on the side of the teeth also,I glued them in place with 2 components glue,in real life these bolds are there to bold the ring with the teeth to the rim.Also you can see that I made a seperate ring and a cover.
Left you see the assembled sprocket.Right you see the sprocket on the frame.23 March 2013:
Left you see below on the picture, that I welded a nut on the axle of the sprocket,which I later turned to a round shape,so it can keep the distance between the sprocket and the bearing.Right you see the axle and the sprocket fitted,and between the frame and the sprocket you can also see the ring.
Left you see that I also made a key in the axle,so there can be a wedge placed,so that the sprocket cannot slip on the axle.Right you see the sprocket and the wedge placed on the axle.
Left you see the bold placed on the end of the axle,so the wedge cannot get out of the axle,and it also keeps the sprocket in place.Right you see the opposite side of the frame,at the backside of the sprocket,where the chain wheel is going to be fitted,from which the sprocket gets driven.Here I made a lose ring to keep the distance to the bearing,and also a key to place here a wedge also,the prevent the toothed wheel for sliding in the length direction of the axle,I also fitted a insert screw.
Left you see the toothed wheel fitted,also locked with a screw on the axle to prevent the wedge and the wheel for coming off of the axle.Right you see the start of making the track links,first strips roughly cut.27 March 2013:
Left you see the strips,6 at one go, being milled flat on the milling machineRight you see the other side being milled.
Left you see the flat sides being milled to the right size.Right you see the result,all the strips are milled to the desired size,ready to be milled to the Z-shape.
Above you see the Z-shape being milled,first one side,then the other side.
Above you see the angled side being milled to the strips.